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Bigger wave board

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Created by cantSUPenough 1 month ago, 4 Oct 2021
cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 7:43AM
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Where I normally surf (Big Left, Flinders) it often gets above head height and quite powerful, and when it does it gets very "lumpy" - lots of water moving around, surges from the reef below, etc. It is 1 km off-shore and it does not take much wind to get some chop going. The last thing you need when the bigger waves come is to bobble, or worse, fall off...

The waves are often quite big and full, so you need board speed in order to catch them - or you have to survive late drops...

I ride my 8'7 Placid up to that size of wave. As it gets bigger I find I either miss the wave or have to catch it late. I might survive the drop, but you have to pick the perfect position to avoid a close-out. Plus it gets tiring dealing with the lumpy conditions.

Normally I turn to my 9'4 Acid (31.5 wide, 136L), but I am looking for something a bit different. The Acid does not seem to be a lot more stable than the Placid. Plus, at speed, I find it hard to turn. That may be the fins, and it may be my lack of skill.

I bought a 9'11 Insane, but it is 29" wide and just too tippy.

I used to ride my bigger Speed out there but sometimes the nose would catch on the late drops, and I never like having to jump on the tail to turn it.

I think I need something that is long enough to catch the wave, wide enough (in the right places) so it is stable, thin enough (especially in the rails) so it is not corky and so that it will still bite into the face of the wave.

When it gets bigger I am not as fussed about maneuverability, but it needs to be able to go top to bottom and cut back so I can get back towards the pocket.

I have lots of Sunovas and the only board I can see that stays slim as it gets bigger is the Flash. So many of the new generation get real fat (high volume) when they get longer.

I am 6'3/192, 59 (staring down 60!), and usually around 100 kg in the winter...

Sorry for the essay. Any suggestions?

slsurf
86 posts
4 Oct 2021 5:02AM
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You might be asking for too much from one board, but I would go with a narrow pin tail to turn at speed and control in chop then long and wide enough to provide standing stability. I'm not really sure how much cutback and vertical surfing you can do on that kind of board. Maybe try to get rid of the insane and get something wider in the standing area. You say placid is close maybe front half of board like that? Laird rode some narrow tail longboards in pretty big surf.

Rosscoe
VIC, 497 posts
4 Oct 2021 8:36AM
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My 8'7" Jimmy Lewis Stun Gun, set up as a quad, is great at that spot.

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 9:50AM
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slsurf said..
You might be asking for too much from one board, but I would go with a narrow pin tail to turn at speed and control in chop then long and wide enough to provide standing stability. I'm not really sure how much cutback and vertical surfing you can do on that kind of board. Maybe try to get rid of the insane and get something wider in the standing area. You say placid is close maybe front half of board like that? Laird rode some narrow tail longboards in pretty big surf.


You are probably right, but the search for the perfect board is fun (but expensive).

It is not pure pin tail, but do you think the Flash is close enough?




cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 9:58AM
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Rosscoe said..
My 8'7" Jimmy Lewis Stun Gun, set up as a quad, is great at that spot.


The stun gun looks like a very good shape... The 8'7 would be a bit small for me, but the 9'2 could be good. In fact, the 9'7 (136L and 31" wide) should be very stable - but maybe it is getting too big...

Rosscoe, can I ask how much you weigh? Do you go out on the big days? I don't go out on the really big days - it gets nasty out there...

Hoppo3228
VIC, 496 posts
4 Oct 2021 10:03AM
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A Step-Up board would be your best bet...

Maybe look at these:

JL Stun Gun. 9'7 x 31" x 136L
or
Custom Sunova (Throttle / SP24 / Falcon).
or
Custom Smik Spitfire. (maybe 9'5" x 30" x 135L)

Also, Sunova makes a Long Gun longboard surfboard... could maybe go that way with tweaked dims into a SUP... Get in super early!

With Bert and Scotty both from WA, surfing offshore bombies is just another day for them, i'd tell them what you like and don't like about what you already have - their experience will steer you in the right direction. Good luck mate.


Just something else to put out there... They don't make this anymore, but just something to think about...

Ishie
NSW, 35 posts
4 Oct 2021 10:06AM
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Smik have released a new version of their Spitfire that is more orientated to big waves than the old one. Could be worth a look at the off the shelf sizes. They do an 8'8" x 31.5" x 129L and a 9'3" x 32" x144L.

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 10:30AM
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Hoppo3228 said..
A Step-Up board would be your best bet...

Maybe look at these:

JL Stun Gun. 9'7 x 31" x 136L
or
Custom Sunova (Throttle / SP24 / Falcon).
or
Custom Smik Spitfire. (maybe 9'5" x 30" x 135L)

Also, Sunova makes a Long Gun longboard surfboard... could maybe go that way with tweaked dims into a SUP... Get in super early!

With Bert and Scotty both from WA, surfing offshore bombies is just another day for them, i'd tell them what you like and don't like about what you already have - their experience will steer you in the right direction. Good luck mate.


Just something else to put out there... They don't make this anymore, but just something to think about...


The Throttle and Falcon both look good, but they are quite narrow. I am reluctant to get on anything less than 31" - it get soo lumpy out there...

The stun gun and Spitfire look very interesting.

I have written to Sunova to see what they might come up with, but if there is something proven off the shelf - all the better!

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 10:32AM
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Ishie said..
Smik have released a new version of their Spitfire that is more orientated to big waves than the old one. Could be worth a look at the off the shelf sizes. They do an 8'8" x 31.5" x 129L and a 9'3" x 32" x144L.


I think the 8'8 might be just a bit small. The 9'3/32" sounds good, but the 144L sounds a bit big. But maybe I am worrying too much about the volume...

DaveSandan
VIC, 1126 posts
4 Oct 2021 2:20PM
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I am watching this post closely as I often use the same spot and have a Mana 10x33 and am thinking of going a bit smaller. The mana is great when its 3-4 foot but the late drops have smashed me a few times, the last one was dragging me closer and closer to the reef when I got caught inside.
I was buggered after 5-6 on top of the head, I felt every 60 of my years that day, the Smik looks interesting and it may just help with the messy water and still allow you to enjoy it on those bigger days.

finsup
WA, 133 posts
4 Oct 2021 1:10PM
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cantSUPenough said..

Ishie said..
Smik have released a new version of their Spitfire that is more orientated to big waves than the old one. Could be worth a look at the off the shelf sizes. They do an 8'8" x 31.5" x 129L and a 9'3" x 32" x144L.



I think the 8'8 might be just a bit small. The 9'3/32" sounds good, but the 144L sounds a bit big. But maybe I am worrying too much about the volume...


... or the 9'5 Bonza. 9'5 x 32 @ 140L (I think!)
Stable outline speed and drivey cutbacks.
I'm 85kg and it's definitely not corky.

MangoDingo
NT, 751 posts
4 Oct 2021 3:46PM
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Gday fellas - I'm watching this thread closely too as I'm keen to see which way you end up going CSE.
Having grown up surfing the Left I know exactly what you're talking about. It can be a big beast eh and definitely gets ugly and radical with size.

I was thinking about how we'd often end up down at Meanos or the Gunnery when we were on short boards - simply because the Left would be so big with so much water moving around, it often made it hard to paddle into them (notwithstanding the fact you're literally buggered by the time you paddle out there! ).

I wonder why you don't embrace a bit of volume and width CSE? If you're after stability out there, when there's a bit of chop and some of those big lumps washing through, why not get yourself a stick that's gonna handle those conditions - and paddle onto them early, rather than have to sit and wait as Dave mentioned, and then cop a hiding if you go over - get onto 'em a bit earlier so you're already reducing that critical aspect out of the equation. Once you're onto 'em, you're off and running.
It's funny, someone mentioned the Throttle, and I was thinking the same thing - it was designed for Sunset, and in some ways, the Left is (kinda) similar - it holds huge waves, it's an incredible distance offshore with lots of water moving around, and you need a board that's gonna get you onto em and be manouverable when you need it.
Even a custom 10' Point Break would go good out there I reckon. A bit more refined, stable, solid as a rock and still manouverable. Plenty of glide to get in early, super fast, easy to paddle out (and back in) and heaps of fun.
Maybe think about a custom so you can really explore what you're chasing.
Good luck man - I'll be keen to see how you go!

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
4 Oct 2021 5:56PM
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MangoDingo said..
Gday fellas - I'm watching this thread closely too as I'm keen to see which way you end up going CSE.
Having grown up surfing the Left I know exactly what you're talking about. It can be a big beast eh and definitely gets ugly and radical with size.

I was thinking about how we'd often end up down at Meanos or the Gunnery when we were on short boards - simply because the Left would be so big with so much water moving around, it often made it hard to paddle into them (notwithstanding the fact you're literally buggered by the time you paddle out there! ).

I wonder why you don't embrace a bit of volume and width CSE? If you're after stability out there, when there's a bit of chop and some of those big lumps washing through, why not get yourself a stick that's gonna handle those conditions - and paddle onto them early, rather than have to sit and wait as Dave mentioned, and then cop a hiding if you go over - get onto 'em a bit earlier so you're already reducing that critical aspect out of the equation. Once you're onto 'em, you're off and running.
It's funny, someone mentioned the Throttle, and I was thinking the same thing - it was designed for Sunset, and in some ways, the Left is (kinda) similar - it holds huge waves, it's an incredible distance offshore with lots of water moving around, and you need a board that's gonna get you onto em and be manouverable when you need it.
Even a custom 10' Point Break would go good out there I reckon. A bit more refined, stable, solid as a rock and still manouverable. Plenty of glide to get in early, super fast, easy to paddle out (and back in) and heaps of fun.
Maybe think about a custom so you can really explore what you're chasing.
Good luck man - I'll be keen to see how you go!


Well, I will be interested to see which way I go too!

Some of the boards, like the Throttle and Insane (which I have) are too narrow for me. The 9'11 Insane is 29" wide. I just find it too tippy. I want to make sure I don't fall off when the outside set comes, and when it is my turn to paddle for the bigger ones, I want to be able to put full power into the paddle and not worry about bobbling.

I have actually taken my 12' Point Break out there, but only when it was small. It sure gets on to it early. But I have broken a leggie with that and the wave was not all that big. I was by myself too...

Years ago, when I was just getting started, I used to take my 9'5 Starby Widepoint out there (I believe Scotty McKercher might have shaped it) - it was big, heavy, and scary.

I do take my 9'4 Acid out, so whatever I get needs to be better than that.

So maybe I should not worry about the volume and just focus on the length, width, rails, and shape. The Spitfire V3 looks pretty good to me. Their biggest is 9'3.


MangoDingo
NT, 751 posts
4 Oct 2021 8:56PM
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For sure CSE - I definitely know where you're at with needing to be steady as you're pulling into the bigger ones. Last thing you want is to be wobbling about. And yeah, it's a long swim in if you lose a board out there and you're on your own - that's sketchy as!
It was Hoppo that mentioned the Throttle earlier - I guess, I was thinking along those lines , something like a custom 9'4 x 32" Throttle. And, as you know, they're doing pretty sweet things with rails now so you don't notice the litres in a negative way.

The new Spitfires do look sick though and are obviously gonna go unreal in those conditions too.

Hoppo3228
VIC, 496 posts
4 Oct 2021 11:09PM
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Hey CSE,

Of all of the stock boards that have been mentioned, IMO the Stun Gun 9'7" x 31" x 136L is probably the leader in size and volume, if going for a traditional Step Up.

Most others that are similar in length are way wider and higher volume... although it's very easy to tweak dims with Sunova or Smik... I can't imagine too many of this type of board in stock at SHQ or SurfFx anyway, so if you have to wait for a Smik or Sunova you might as well get it exact.

Yo MangoDingo, the exact reason I posted the Venom vid was to maybe get CSE thinking about a modded Pointbreak also... Similar concept of board and would really work out at Big Lefts.... Funny we both had the same thought!

IMO If you are gonna end up with something around 10' x 31ish, i'd really look at using a waist leash in the bigger stuff. I've got dragged a LONG way by my ankle in some waves I was not prepared for a while back. Couldn't reach the ankle tab... and it nearly got me.

Tardy
4181 posts
5 Oct 2021 5:21AM
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I know whatcha mean by too much volume on a big lumpy wave ,they do bounce out of the water ,
I think a custom a good option .I like the look of the kanga ,GR also the wedge is a nice big wave shape with a hip
like the acid ,insane and placid ,I find my 9,1 acid the best big wave board in my Quiver .the length is the key element i feel .
I've come up with this secret formula ,big wave big board ,little wave little board ...
the placid is a magic board in small to medium waves ,but it likes to bounce on big lumpy faces ..its the nose width that does it
It struggles on lump big waves ,i just can't seem to paddle it fast enough ,as big waves have speed ..the 9,1 acid ,faster paddler ,faster board
it doesn't turn as well ,but i feel safer dropping down the face .
good luck .can't wait to see what you decide on ..too many choices

SupChickadee
VIC, 117 posts
5 Oct 2021 8:38AM
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Hey CSE
i've ridden the 9'7 x 31 JL in Bali on a similar break to ours and really liked it.
Next time we're out you're welcome to try my husbands Creek 9'4x32 - he loves it, or my 9'5x30 Atlantis - which is my cheapest sup, but ironically my go to board, for that break.
I've also had the Sunova Style 10x29 out on the biggest days i've ever done and was brilliant on the wave, but i'd go 30 wide for that break - I let the Style go as i found it a bit heavy to paddle for my size.
We're probably back from Qld late October if you can wait that long and want to try our sups, always good to have a crack in the conditions you actually ride and i wouldn't mind having a crack on your 8'7 placid (or acids)
Happy Supping

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
5 Oct 2021 8:45AM
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SupChickadee said..
Hey CSE
i've ridden the 9'7 x 31 JL in Bali on a similar break to ours and really liked it.
Next time we're out you're welcome to try my husbands Creek 9'4x32 - he loves it, or my 9'5x30 Atlantis - which is my cheapest sup, but ironically my go to board, for that break.
I've also had the Sunova Style 10x29 out on the biggest days i've ever done and was brilliant on the wave, but i'd go 30 wide for that break - I let the Style go as i found it a bit heavy to paddle for my size.
We're probably back from Qld late October if you can wait that long and want to try our sups, always good to have a crack in the conditions you actually ride and i wouldn't mind having a crack on your 8'7 placid (or acids)
Happy Supping


Hi SC/L,

I wondered where you had got to - I haven't seen you out there for a while. Mind you, with the endless lockdowns...

I have a 10' Style but it is so straight/flat that I can imagine it turning into a submarine if you are not careful on the drops.

I'll see how this pans out, I would love to try those boards out there, and you are certainly welcome to give mine a spin.

Jason

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
5 Oct 2021 8:47AM
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MangoDingo said..
For sure CSE - I definitely know where you're at with needing to be steady as you're pulling into the bigger ones. Last thing you want is to be wobbling about. And yeah, it's a long swim in if you lose a board out there and you're on your own - that's sketchy as!
It was Hoppo that mentioned the Throttle earlier - I guess, I was thinking along those lines , something like a custom 9'4 x 32" Throttle. And, as you know, they're doing pretty sweet things with rails now so you don't notice the litres in a negative way.

The new Spitfires do look sick though and are obviously gonna go unreal in those conditions too.


I do like the look of the Spitfire - and if it works at Margaret River it will work at Big Left!

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
5 Oct 2021 8:56AM
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Hoppo3228 said..
Hey CSE,

Of all of the stock boards that have been mentioned, IMO the Stun Gun 9'7" x 31" x 136L is probably the leader in size and volume, if going for a traditional Step Up.

Most others that are similar in length are way wider and higher volume... although it's very easy to tweak dims with Sunova or Smik... I can't imagine too many of this type of board in stock at SHQ or SurfFx anyway, so if you have to wait for a Smik or Sunova you might as well get it exact.

Yo MangoDingo, the exact reason I posted the Venom vid was to maybe get CSE thinking about a modded Pointbreak also... Similar concept of board and would really work out at Big Lefts.... Funny we both had the same thought!

IMO If you are gonna end up with something around 10' x 31ish, i'd really look at using a waist leash in the bigger stuff. I've got dragged a LONG way by my ankle in some waves I was not prepared for a while back. Couldn't reach the ankle tab... and it nearly got me.


Although I am always impatient, I am willing to wait to get this board right. Whether it is a custom or it has to be imported, I can wait. Most of my summer I surf down at the prom and that is a different break in every way.

Sometimes I find it "interesting" asking for a custom. I wonder what I could possibly know about a board that the expert shapers and surfers at all these companies do not already know - and have already gone through one or two review cycles. The Spitfire is version 3 of the board! They probably know something that I don't

Your suggestion about the waist leash is a good one. I bought one a few years ago but never used it... I wonder where it is... That break is fantastic if you make the drop and get far enough left to make the channel. The right is a bit trickier on the big days. But if you don't make it...nasty! And I wish they wouldn't play the Jaws music when I am in the water...

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
5 Oct 2021 9:08AM
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Tardy said..
I know whatcha mean by too much volume on a big lumpy wave ,they do bounce out of the water ,
I think a custom a good option .I like the look of the kanga ,GR also the wedge is a nice big wave shape with a hip
like the acid ,insane and placid ,I find my 9,1 acid the best big wave board in my Quiver .the length is the key element i feel .
I've come up with this secret formula ,big wave big board ,little wave little board ...
the placid is a magic board in small to medium waves ,but it likes to bounce on big lumpy faces ..its the nose width that does it
It struggles on lump big waves ,i just can't seem to paddle it fast enough ,as big waves have speed ..the 9,1 acid ,faster paddler ,faster board
it doesn't turn as well ,but i feel safer dropping down the face .
good luck .can't wait to see what you decide on ..too many choices


Yes, so many choices!

If I can keep my weight down the 9'1 Acid goes well - but it gets too tippy for me when it gets bigger and I get bigger.

You raise a good point though - the lumpy chop slows you down when paddling for the wave and then you have to cope with it on the face of the wave... I love that break, but I struggle to remember a day when it was clean and big.

My highest priority on the big days is making the drop - the adrenaline of paddling for the wave, committing to it, and surviving, and then racing along the face is something else!

SupChickadee
VIC, 117 posts
5 Oct 2021 10:07AM
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cantSUPenough said..

SupChickadee said..
Hey CSE
i've ridden the 9'7 x 31 JL in Bali on a similar break to ours and really liked it.
Next time we're out you're welcome to try my husbands Creek 9'4x32 - he loves it, or my 9'5x30 Atlantis - which is my cheapest sup, but ironically my go to board, for that break.
I've also had the Sunova Style 10x29 out on the biggest days i've ever done and was brilliant on the wave, but i'd go 30 wide for that break - I let the Style go as i found it a bit heavy to paddle for my size.
We're probably back from Qld late October if you can wait that long and want to try our sups, always good to have a crack in the conditions you actually ride and i wouldn't mind having a crack on your 8'7 placid (or acids)
Happy Supping



Hi SC/L,

I wondered where you had got to - I haven't seen you out there for a while. Mind you, with the endless lockdowns...

I have a 10' Style but it is so straight/flat that I can imagine it turning into a submarine if you are not careful on the drops.

I'll see how this pans out, I would love to try those boards out there, and you are certainly welcome to give mine a spin.

Jason


Yep got out before last lockdown and been up north for 3.5 months chasing surf breaks when it gets below 22 degrees i get cold, turning into a local (except i haven't been up here for 3 generations)!
Style, for me, is a down the line sup with a nice cutback at our local.
Andre who goes out there regularly had the Creek 9'4 before he broke it and then got the bigger Bonza. if you can catch up with him, apparently hurt himself on a binge night, but hopefully recovered now!

Rosscoe
VIC, 497 posts
7 Oct 2021 9:13AM
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cantSUPenough said..

Rosscoe said..
My 8'7" Jimmy Lewis Stun Gun, set up as a quad, is great at that spot.



The stun gun looks like a very good shape... The 8'7 would be a bit small for me, but the 9'2 could be good. In fact, the 9'7 (136L and 31" wide) should be very stable - but maybe it is getting too big...

Rosscoe, can I ask how much you weigh? Do you go out on the big days? I don't go out on the really big days - it gets nasty out there...


I'm 72kg at present, but have had the Stun Gun since when I was more like 80kg. Very stable. Due to lockdown I haven't surfed anywhere for ages, but yes I have used the board in overhead conditions many times. This is somewhere else (not telling)



justaddwater
NSW, 358 posts
7 Oct 2021 2:08PM
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Agree with the stun gun vote,but get an older one with a fin box in it ,Jimmy's back fin placement is way to far back,probably for Hawaiian breaks IMO,

surfinJ
598 posts
7 Oct 2021 2:42PM
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Good luck on your choice of a special board. For myself when it gets big and sloshing I reach for my boards with more volume. My performance boards are all between 120-130l where the bottom number is my limit. In smaller or clean waves, not too much water moving around, the volumes are where the fun is at for me. But when mobility and balance start to get challenged this first group of boards becomes no fun. Too small just weakens me as the conditions tweak.
So except for a stepup, my 2 choices for the big days are as follows. A 10-4x28 145l full gun. As it is a very sleek shape it by no means feels corky. Riding it is a joy as it just drops and turns with ease. The kind of turns that are needed, not ripping ones. But though the 28" width is where I think the sweet spot is for control on the big ones, it is a tippy challenge when paddling in rough water. So basically a beauty of a board that doesn't get much use. So now the other big day board. The longboard gun 10-6x31 149l. This custom Surf from Bert has thinned out rails, more rocker and pulled and kicked tail. The resulting board is an amazing tool for exploring the raging conditions. The extra volume is the difference for me. And the beauty of this board is the fun translates to all other wave conditions to make it an everyday tool too.

kev7
WA, 131 posts
19 Oct 2021 4:19PM
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cantSUPenough said..
Where I normally surf (Big Left, Flinders) it often gets above head height and quite powerful, and when it does it gets very "lumpy" - lots of water moving around, surges from the reef below, etc. It is 1 km off-shore and it does not take much wind to get some chop going. The last thing you need when the bigger waves come is to bobble, or worse, fall off...

The waves are often quite big and full, so you need board speed in order to catch them - or you have to survive late drops...

I ride my 8'7 Placid up to that size of wave. As it gets bigger I find I either miss the wave or have to catch it late. I might survive the drop, but you have to pick the perfect position to avoid a close-out. Plus it gets tiring dealing with the lumpy conditions.

Normally I turn to my 9'4 Acid (31.5 wide, 136L), but I am looking for something a bit different. The Acid does not seem to be a lot more stable than the Placid. Plus, at speed, I find it hard to turn. That may be the fins, and it may be my lack of skill.

I bought a 9'11 Insane, but it is 29" wide and just too tippy.

I used to ride my bigger Speed out there but sometimes the nose would catch on the late drops, and I never like having to jump on the tail to turn it.

I think I need something that is long enough to catch the wave, wide enough (in the right places) so it is stable, thin enough (especially in the rails) so it is not corky and so that it will still bite into the face of the wave.

When it gets bigger I am not as fussed about maneuverability, but it needs to be able to go top to bottom and cut back so I can get back towards the pocket.

I have lots of Sunovas and the only board I can see that stays slim as it gets bigger is the Flash. So many of the new generation get real fat (high volume) when they get longer.

I am 6'3/192, 59 (staring down 60!), and usually around 100 kg in the winter...

Sorry for the essay. Any suggestions?


have a try of a 10 ft tom carroll they are awsome stable and they rip bullet proof aswell

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
20 Oct 2021 4:27PM
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Rosscoe said..

cantSUPenough said..


Rosscoe said..
My 8'7" Jimmy Lewis Stun Gun, set up as a quad, is great at that spot.




The stun gun looks like a very good shape... The 8'7 would be a bit small for me, but the 9'2 could be good. In fact, the 9'7 (136L and 31" wide) should be very stable - but maybe it is getting too big...

Rosscoe, can I ask how much you weigh? Do you go out on the big days? I don't go out on the really big days - it gets nasty out there...



I'm 72kg at present, but have had the Stun Gun since when I was more like 80kg. Very stable. Due to lockdown I haven't surfed anywhere for ages, but yes I have used the board in overhead conditions many times. This is somewhere else (not telling)




Yep, that's a good size wave! The stun gun is definitely a contender!

cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
20 Oct 2021 4:33PM
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kev7 said..

cantSUPenough said..
Where I normally surf (Big Left, Flinders) it often gets above head height and quite powerful, and when it does it gets very "lumpy" - lots of water moving around, surges from the reef below, etc. It is 1 km off-shore and it does not take much wind to get some chop going. The last thing you need when the bigger waves come is to bobble, or worse, fall off...

The waves are often quite big and full, so you need board speed in order to catch them - or you have to survive late drops...

I ride my 8'7 Placid up to that size of wave. As it gets bigger I find I either miss the wave or have to catch it late. I might survive the drop, but you have to pick the perfect position to avoid a close-out. Plus it gets tiring dealing with the lumpy conditions.

Normally I turn to my 9'4 Acid (31.5 wide, 136L), but I am looking for something a bit different. The Acid does not seem to be a lot more stable than the Placid. Plus, at speed, I find it hard to turn. That may be the fins, and it may be my lack of skill.

I bought a 9'11 Insane, but it is 29" wide and just too tippy.

I used to ride my bigger Speed out there but sometimes the nose would catch on the late drops, and I never like having to jump on the tail to turn it.

I think I need something that is long enough to catch the wave, wide enough (in the right places) so it is stable, thin enough (especially in the rails) so it is not corky and so that it will still bite into the face of the wave.

When it gets bigger I am not as fussed about maneuverability, but it needs to be able to go top to bottom and cut back so I can get back towards the pocket.

I have lots of Sunovas and the only board I can see that stays slim as it gets bigger is the Flash. So many of the new generation get real fat (high volume) when they get longer.

I am 6'3/192, 59 (staring down 60!), and usually around 100 kg in the winter...

Sorry for the essay. Any suggestions?



have a try of a 10 ft tom carroll they are awsome stable and they rip bullet proof aswell


They look good, and if they are designed for the "outer reef of Oahu's North Shore" they certainly have street cred. Boards this size seem to have conflicting marketing - they look good for the conditions I am discussing yet they say they are good for people with a lot less weight than me and people who are new to sup surfing. I guess that is the main market for a 10' board (and bigger). I have also been recommended the 10'2 x 32 Starby Wedge which has similar dimensions (but more expensive).





cantSUPenough
VIC, 2040 posts
20 Oct 2021 4:38PM
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Select to expand quote
surfinJ said..
Good luck on your choice of a special board. For myself when it gets big and sloshing I reach for my boards with more volume. My performance boards are all between 120-130l where the bottom number is my limit. In smaller or clean waves, not too much water moving around, the volumes are where the fun is at for me. But when mobility and balance start to get challenged this first group of boards becomes no fun. Too small just weakens me as the conditions tweak.
So except for a stepup, my 2 choices for the big days are as follows. A 10-4x28 145l full gun. As it is a very sleek shape it by no means feels corky. Riding it is a joy as it just drops and turns with ease. The kind of turns that are needed, not ripping ones. But though the 28" width is where I think the sweet spot is for control on the big ones, it is a tippy challenge when paddling in rough water. So basically a beauty of a board that doesn't get much use. So now the other big day board. The longboard gun 10-6x31 149l. This custom Surf from Bert has thinned out rails, more rocker and pulled and kicked tail. The resulting board is an amazing tool for exploring the raging conditions. The extra volume is the difference for me. And the beauty of this board is the fun translates to all other wave conditions to make it an everyday tool too.


I have the Insane which is 9'11 x 29 and find it too tippy. I can get around on it just fine, but when there is a lot of water movement it wasn't stable enough to have the confidence to put my head down and paddle hard for the wave. I tried discussing a custom board with them without luck...

But as per my previous post, I am now thinking that a 10' board with a bit of width (but good rails) and volume (with a narrow tail) could serve well when the conditions get bigger - and it will be fun in small waves too.

Zeusman
QLD, 1342 posts
20 Oct 2021 5:54PM
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If you can find one, I think the old Naish Hokua GT 9'10" x 30.5" should suit your needs perfectly. I had one years ago and it had everything you're looking for. I'm the same size as you and found it worked in plenty of size.

supthecreek
2305 posts
22 Oct 2021 7:59PM
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Purely speculation, but....

I just ordered a GenRation SP24 for my bigger hurricane swells.
I surf point and reefs that require more paddle power as well.
But...mostly because the locals use really big boards and take off on everything, way outside of me on my smaller boards.

So I went with some length and ordered the 9'7 SP24

I'll have to wait till after I have actually ridden it to have an opinion, but after riding most of their boards and surfing with these guys in some solid OH Mexican surf, I believe what they have to say about their boards, so I'll let them say it.
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Here's the blub off the website:

Sean Poynter (SP) signature model.
The SP24 is Sean Poynter's go-to board for doing his best surfing in mid to larger size surf.

The ultra high-performance board for medium to large surf. Ideal for waves that have more curvature and power to them.
This board was created to be the high performance step up from the SP25 and allows you to push your rail turns, top turns and airs as much as possible with the least resistance.
With a narrower outline, increased rocker, pinched rails and a slightly stiffer fin set up, this board is made for speed, control and next-level surfing.
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All I know is it's a sweet looking shape and I am stoked to give it a go!







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"Bigger wave board" started by cantSUPenough