Sun is back out. I get so many comments about the stupid mask, it's ridiculous. Before all this covid BS, people simply assumed (rightly) it's for the sun. Now they automatically assume it's for covid...when you're out in the water...surfing...alone... Like the whole world went and caught a case of the stupid. Skin cancer is real. Have to deal with it all the time now, because the first 3 decades surfing, I was dumb. I'm still dumb, but smarter about four hours on the ocean at UV index 7 in February /rant
So anyway, this is a remote point break. 20 minute paddle by SUP. Only left. It gets big and nasty. Super shallow. When it's overhead, it'll drain, and half the wave turns into the lip. When it gets really big, it's one of the most terrifying ridable waves I've seen. This break hates people, and loves human flesh. Today is head to a little bit overhead on the peak we're riding. Probably close to double at the point, but that's above my paygrade on a SUP ;D Even on a smaller day like today, it's constantly shifting, and shape changing as it moves across the reef. To surf it well, you have to be able to read the reef and water pretty well.
Looks like the sort of wave that makes you think you got it sussed then will squeeze you onto the shallow reef, roll you along it and make you regret it - perfect!
Select to expand quoteSouwester said..
Looks like the sort of wave that makes you think you got it sussed then will squeeze you onto the shallow reef, roll you along it and make you regret it - perfect!
LOL. Exactly!
Stoking vid. What nice conditions. The radical spot looks sweet with the sun and smooth water. And great job filming with the paddle mount.
Select to expand quotesurfinJ said..
Stoking vid. What nice conditions. The radical spot looks sweet with the sun and smooth water. And great job filming with the paddle mount.
Thanks J.
Select to expand quotecantSUPenough said..
Why don't you wear booties to protect your feet?
I'm afraid of what the other kids will think 
It's a holdover from my pronie days. If I remember, it was a too-much traction issue with booties, but that was with wax. I have the O'Neill Superfreak Tropical booties, and will try them next time out.
Select to expand quotebenjl said..
What blue planet board and size are you riding?
Pocket series Knife. 8'8"x29'x116L. Probably no longer available, though. BP has dropped out of the performance surf market, and are concentrating on the larger "fun" surfing boards, cruisers, etc.
cool vid oki 
